The cleaning ladies just left. Our GE gas cooktop has electric spark igniters. They won't stop sparking. I've disconnected the unit from the electrical power. Any ideas out there to fix the unit? I really can't remove the unit from the countertop!!n (GE cooktop, model# JPG626)

Asked by harvey on 09/11/2008 13  Answers

ManualsOnline posted an answer 15 years, 7 months ago

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5 Last night, we had a spill of water on the cooktop that apparently got into the electronics. I did not notice it, and when I went to light one of the burners a massive short occurred and flames came out of the cooktop control unit. This is a VERY dangerous situation and I will be contacting GE after the holiday weekend to report it. Posted 7/4/2010
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1 I looke up FixYa website. There're many having same ticking spark. One suggestion is to remove the switches and blow air using hair dryer or fan to dry it out . Many said it worked. I tried and seemed to resolve one ignitor on the left but the one on th right continues to tick but less frequently (once per minute or so). I continue to blow air now. Hoping it works tommorrow. Encourage y'all try it.
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0 I am having the same problem This is an OBVIOUS DESIGN FLAW in GE Cook Tops. A relatively minor design change is needed to keep liquids from entering the electrical components and causing this problem. I would suggest a letter writing campaign to GE, until they institute a recall.
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0 There should be a recall, as this should not happen on a gas range. It is dangerous, and very easy for a pot to boil over and cause a fire.
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0 I have the same cooktop and same problem with model JGP970BEKBB, and your description fits mine to a T. The first time, because of the clicking, I shut off the breaker. The second time, now out of warranty, it caught fire and melted the control knob. I am looking for a service manual now. There should be a recall, as this should not happen on a gas range. It is dangerous, and very easy for a pot to boil over and cause a fire.
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0 I sparyed cooktop with clorox cleanup and flame shot up 2 feet. if i said it was a pos would i be in trouble ??
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0 I have the opposite problem. My igniters have stopped working all together. Any recommendations. The igniters slowly went out one-by-one over a couple of weeks.
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0 I've had the same problem after a boilover that got liquid down under the burner knobs. I had to get under the counter finally and unplug the power. I now see burn marks around some of the switches and I don't dare reconnect the power but feel I need to replace the switch assembly just to be safe.
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0 The power on indicator is always dimly lit. It should normally be off. Whatis causing this condition? Thanks
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0 I had the same exact problem happen to me. I spilled a small amount of water on the cooktop and it was like the 4th of July with all the sparks and sputters and flames coming out of the ignitor knob. The pilot keeps clicking, had to turn off breaker and gas.
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0

The problem is that water either falls directly into the control shafts, or more likely that it spills & runs under the stovetop & later condenses out on the controls. The water on the electrical controls creates an electrical "leakage" that can then errantly fire the igniters.



The hairdryer trick can work to dry things out, but only if there is just a tiny bit of water. At times I've helped out the drying by spraying just a tiny bit of WD-40 at the control shafts. However, if a large spill occurred, neither of these solutions will be permanent. The hairdryer can't evaporate large pools of water trapped under the stovetop, & this water will later evaporate some more & then once again condense on the controls.



To more permanently solve the problem of excess moisture under the stovetop, you will need to unscrew & remove all the burners, lift & tip the front of the stove on its rear hinge, & prop it open with a stick. Then you can clean out what is likely a wet gooey mess (that may also be moldy). Uck! The good news is that once everything is clean & dry again, the problem will be solved... at least until the next major spill. I suppose one could apply silicone around each burner tray to help prevent spills on the stovetop from running underneath, but the problem hasn't happened to me often enough to drive to this (& the burner trays are easier to clean if they can be occasionally removed from the stove).



Be sure to unplug the stove (or turn off the circuit breaker) before reaching under the stovetop where there are electrical wires and before putting your hands anywhere near the malfunctioning igniters at the burners. I thought I was being careful as I cleaned out under the controls, but I got bit by the 110V AC anyway. While I was lucky & the shock I got was not bad, your mileage may vary & such a shock could be fatal. Remember, we already know moisture is causing 110 volt current to leak to the igniter voltage step-up circuit; it is likely also leaking elsewhere. The igniters I suspect won't kill you, but they could leave a serious burn. Also, the natural reaction is to jump back & this might cause you hurt yourself in another manner (like perhaps causing the stovetop to drop on you or somebody nearby).



BTW, people have commented that all the igniters fire together when the controls get wet. Actually, all the igniters fire at once even when you manually turn on just one burner. People don't normally realize that all the igniters fire together; what they notice is that one burner ignites as they turn on each control. Only those burners that have gas flowing to them ignite. There is little fire danger from just an errant spark, even if there is no one is around.



Water can also cause igniters not to fire when they should. If instead of the controls getting wet, one of the igniters gets wet by an overflowing pot, the moisture may suck all the available voltage & there might not be enough "juice" left in the igniter circuit to spark some or all of the igniters. Therefore, if you find one or more igniters won't fire, lift off every burner's 2-piece flame spreader assembly & make sure the underside is completely dry. Chances are one or more of these assemblies is wet. Be careful though, any burner in recent use will be hot!



Another word of caution. Proper burner flame functioning relies on the stove being almost airtight between the stovetop & its undersides. Therefore, before placing back down the stovetop, make sure the gasket between the top & the bottom of the stove is intact (and if necessary repaired). I had to glue my gasket back down, as it had gotten wet & the adhesive that holds it in position had failed. Also, when replacing the burner trays, each burner jet must be drawn up by its two screws to prevent the improper introduction of air from under the stovetop to the flame. Use care not to cross-thread these screws or eventually they will strip out & no longer accomplish this task. No electric tools on these screws; carefully start them manually in the previously formed threads & then use a screwdriver to slowly draw the jet to the proper position (without overtightening). If these screws strip, you will need to restore the airtight integrity of the burner assembly by going to an automotive or hardware store & getting "speedi-clips" or by fashioning some other solution. If you don't, the burners won't burn properly, and it could also allow a flame to sneak under the stovetop where it could cause a fire.


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0 The igniter to one of my GE cooktop burners was going off by itself every minute or so and this time it was not because of any small liquid spill we could clean up. What ended up solving the problem was turning off the electricity to my kitchen (or whole house to make sure right one is off) via the circuit breakers, removing all the burner parts on top & tin foil circles we had for catching spills, cleaning the ignitors/area around them & burner parts with a hard bristle toothbrush with a bit of moist dutch cleanser (avoiding water that also causes ignitors to malfunction) & drying it well with dry paper towels.  then turned electricity back on & left everything off before putting it back once we verified there was no clicking for 20 minutes. I see there is a youtube video that also shows the igniter problem can happen if there is a wire out of wack so if the above doesnt work, try checking the wires only after ALL the electricity to your house is temporarily shut off via your circuit breakers & the gas to your stove is also turned off (pull out whatever is under your stovetop to find gas valve or turn off the main to your house). Then unscrew all the screws for each burner & take off the on/off knobs to lift the top panel off to check wires & fix with electrical tape as needed. Last thing to try is replace the igniter system of course.
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