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16
TROUBLESHOOTING
Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the
cost of an unnecessary service call.
Your refrigerator will not operate
■ Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded
3 prong outlet.
■ Has a household fuse or circuit breaker tripped? Replace
the fuse or reset the circuit.
■ Is the Refrigerator Control turned to the OFF position?
Refer to the “Using the Control(s)” section.
■ Is the refrigerator defrosting? Recheck to see if the
refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will
regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.
The lights do not work
■ Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded
3 prong outlet.
■ Is a light bulb loose in the socket? Turn the refrigerator
control to OFF. Disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical
supply. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then reconnect
the refrigerator to the electrical supply and reset the
refrigerator control.
■ Has a light bulb burned out? Replace with an appliance
bulb of the same wattage, size, and shape. See the
“Changing the Light Bulb(s)” section.
There is water in the defrost drain pan
■ Is the refrigerator defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is
normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
■ Is it more humid than normal? Expect that the water in the
defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when
it is hot or humid.
The motor seems to run too much
■ Is the room temperature hotter than normal? Expect the
motor to run longer under warm conditions. At normal room
temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of
the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even
more of the time.
■ Has a large amount of food just been added to the
refrigerator? Adding a large amount of food warms the
refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to
cool the refrigerator back down. See the “Refrigerator
Features” section.
■ Are the doors opened often? Expect the motor to run longer
when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get
everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food
organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as
the food is removed.
■ Is the control set correctly for the surrounding
conditions? Refer to the “Using the Control(s)” section.
■ Are the doors closed completely? Push the doors firmly
shut. If they will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not
close completely” later in this section.
■ Are the condenser coils dirty? This prevents air transfer and
makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils.
Refer to the “Cleaning” section.
NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due
to its high-efficiency motor.
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise
■ The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator. Refer to
the “Normal Sounds” section.
The ice maker is not producing ice (on some models)
■ Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice?
Wait 24 hours after hookup for ice production. See the “Using
the Control(s)” section.
■ Is the wire shutoff arm in the OFF (arm up) position?
Lower the wire shutoff arm to the ON (arm down) position.
See the “Ice Maker” section.
■ Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned
on? Turn on the water valve. See the “Water Supply
Connection” section.
■ Is an ice cube jammed in the ejector arm? Remove the ice
from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. Refer to the “Ice
Maker” section.
■ Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice
been produced? Check to see if your refrigerator has been
connected to your home water supply and the supply shutoff
valve is turned on. Refer to the “Water Supply Connection”
section.
NOTE: If not due to any of the above, there may be a problem
with the water line. Call for service.