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RS1200001 42 November 1996
Ice Maker
Specifications
Mold heater: 185 watts, 264 ohms
Thermostat: Close 17 ± 3°F (-8 ± 1°C)
(bimetal) Opens 32° ± 3°F (0°± 1°C)
Water fill: 140 cc, 7.5 sec.
Motor cycle: Stamped in circuit.
Plug in connectors.
One revolution of blades takes
3 minutes plug stall time on ice
(eject and water fill).
Testing Procedures
Verify ice maker has power, shut-off arm is down, and
freezer is cold enough to close bimetal thermostat.
• Test point L and N will verify 120 volts to ice maker
module.
• Test points T and H will verify bimetal thermostat is
open or closed.
• Verify test probes go into test points 1/2 inch
(1.25 cm).
1. Short T and H with a shunt (insulated 14 gauge wire
with ends stripped back 5/8 inch (1.6 cm)) to run
motor. If motor runs, replace bimetal thermostat. If
motor does not run, replace module.
2. Leave jumper in for half of revolution. Touch
heater mold. If heater mold feels warm, heater is
working properly.
3. Remove jumper. Water valve will be energized in
last half of revolution if mold heater has not failed.
Operation
Thermostat closes when temperature reaches
17° ± 3°F (-8.3° ± 1.5°C). Current flows through
thermostat to motor. See “Ice Maker Wiring
Diagram”. Motor is linked with drive gear. From
module, there are copper contacts that ride on copper
strips on backside of drive gear. As the drive gear
rotates, contacts will make or break a circuit (tract) to
the copper strips to operate ice maker.
All components can be tested without removing ice
maker or moving refrigerator away from installation.
Remove cover.
Test points are identified on module:
N = Neutral side of line
M = Motor connection
H = Heater Connection
T = Thermostat connection
L = L1 side of line
V = Water valve connection
Caution
To avoid ice maker damage do not short any
contacts together other than those specified.